A Journey to the Ancient Tea Mountains of Yunnan
Recently, I travelled to the far south of Yunnan, the birthplace of Pu’er tea and one of the most important tea growing regions in the world. There lies Xishuangbanna, a region unlike anywhere else in China.
Bordering Laos and Myanmar, it is home to lush tropical forests, extraordinary biodiversity, ancient tea mountains, 40–50% of the world’s known edible mushroom species, wild elephants, and more than a dozen ethnic minorities.
The air is warm and fragrant, banana trees line the roads, and mist drifts through forests where some tea trees have stood for a thousand years.
Coming here, I could see with my own eyes how tea culture, herbal medicine, food, rituals, and community are inseparable from daily life, and I experienced firsthand how sacred this land feels, the deep connection its people express through their indigenous wisdom, their traditions, and their songs.
I came here to explore the origins of Pu’er tea and the communities who have cared for these ancient tea forests for generations.
What fascinated me most was not the tea itself, but the people who have lived with these trees for centuries.
The Hani family who hosted us first guided us through their tea forests and production facilities, showing us every step of the process, from harvesting fresh leaves, to fermenting them, to pressing them into cakes of Pu’er tea. But the highlight came when they opened the doors to their ancestral home.
Walking through tea forests with trees over 800 years old, sharing meals with local families, and listening to stories passed down through generations reminded me that tea here is far more than a beverage. It is culture, medicine, history, and a living connection between people and the land.
Standing beneath these trees, one begins to understand why tea occupies such a special place in Chinese culture.
What makes Xishuangbanna so extraordinary is difficult to describe in words. It is not only the breathtaking landscapes or the ancient tea trees. It is the feeling that the wisdom of the land is still alive. The connection between plants and people, between food and medicine, between ancestors and daily life can be felt everywhere.
Tea
“Tea is not merely a beverage. It is one of humanity’s oldest medicines.”
For thousands of years, tea has occupied a unique place in Chinese medicine. One of the earliest references comes from the legendary emperor and herbalist Shen Nong (神农), who is said to have discovered tea while testing medicinal plants.
A famous Chinese saying states:
神农尝百草，日遇七十二毒，得茶而解之。
“Shen Nong tasted hundreds of herbs and encountered seventy-two poisons in a single day, yet tea resolved them all.”
Long before tea became a global commodity, it was valued for its ability to clear heat, aid digestion, awaken the mind, and support longevity.
Why Tea Was Considered Medicine
In Traditional Chinese Medicine, every tea possesses its own energetic nature, flavor profile, and medicinal properties.
Some teas cool the body and clear excess heat.
Others warm the digestive system and strengthen Yang energy.
Some support detoxification, while others calm the spirit and nourish Yin.
This understanding gave rise to another famous saying:
一年茶，三年药，七年宝。
“One-year-old tea is tea, three-year-old tea is medicine, seven-year-old tea is treasure.”
Traditionally associated with aged white tea and certain aged teas, this phrase reflects the belief that time transforms tea. Through natural aging and fermentation, its medicinal properties deepen and its character becomes richer and more balanced.
Understanding the Six Great Families of Chinese Tea
Chinese tea is traditionally divided into six major categories:
Green Tea (绿茶
Yellow Tea (黄茶)
Oolong Tea (乌龙茶)
Red Tea (红茶, known as Black Tea in the West)
Dark Tea (黑茶)
White Tea (白茶)
Pu’er tea is somewhat unique within this classification. Depending on how it is processed and aged, it can take on characteristics that resemble different tea families. In Yunnan, you may encounter several forms of Pu’er tea, each with its own flavour profile, energetic nature, and traditional use:
Pu’er Green Tea (Sheng Pu’er)
Young Sheng Pu’er resembles green tea. It is fresh, vibrant, slightly bitter, and is traditionally used to clear heat and support metabolism.
Aged Sheng Pu’er
As it ages naturally over years or decades, Sheng Pu’er becomes smoother, sweeter, and more grounding.
Ripe Pu’er (Shou Pu’er)
Through controlled fermentation, Shou Pu’er develops a deep, earthy flavour and warming nature. It is often appreciated for supporting digestion and nourishing the stomach.
Pu’er White Tea
A lesser-known specialty of Yunnan, Pu’er white tea is prized for its gentle, elegant nature. Traditionally, white tea is associated with beauty, skin health, hydration, and healthy aging.
The Poetry of Pu’er: A Tea Shaped by Time
There is a saying among tea lovers that Pu’er tea is the tea that carries the scent of your beloved.
Ancient Chinese poets often wrote about tea not merely as a drink, but as a companion to solitude, reflection, and spiritual cultivation. Tea was shared between scholars, monks, travellers, and physicians. A pot of tea could accompany a poem, a meditation, or a conversation lasting deep into the night.
Unlike many modern products designed for consistency and control, Pu’er emerged through a relationship between humans, mountains, weather, and time itself. Its story is one of patience, coincidence, and transformation.
Not Every Tea Is Right for Every Person
One of the core principles of Traditional Chinese Medicine is that there is no universal remedy. The best tea for one person may not be the best tea for another.
Someone with excess internal heat may benefit from cooling teas such as young Sheng Pu’er or green tea. In contrast, a person with cold digestion, fatigue, or signs of Yang deficiency may be better suited to warming teas such as aged Pu’er, Shou Pu’er, or certain roasted oolongs.
Rather than asking which tea is the healthiest, Chinese Medicine asks a different question: Which tea is right for this person, in this moment? The answer depends on the individual’s constitution, current state of balance, and even the season.
About Nanjing
Nanjing lives and works in China and is a sound healer and guide for cultural and culinary journeys. She is trained in Traditional Chinese Medicine and, as part of the DaoSense team, shares stories, insights, and sound recordings directly from the regions where traditional tea culture and Daoist practices continue to thrive.
Within the DaoSense membership, Nanjing creates a monthly Sound Healing Journey inspired by the corresponding element of Chinese Medicine. Drawing on the sounds, philosophy, and traditions of Chinese Daoism, she weaves immersive meditative soundscapes that invite members to experience and explore each month’s theme on a deeper level.
In addition, she leads selected tea and cultural journeys through Yunnan. These experiences focus on encounters with local families, ancient tea forests, and the living traditions of a region where tea, medicine, and everyday life have been closely intertwined for centuries. Information about upcoming journeys is shared through the DaoSense newsletter.
